The Surfer
- Details
- Written May 2024
Not this one, the one behind;
One wave after another, one colour after another,
Crested, sloped; breaking, crashing,
Ready to drive him forward or drag him back
In a rip-tide of destruction.
Dressed in a wetsuit, floating on the surfboard
Complete with dolphin-like flippers,
Or just ready to strike out, catching the force,
Pushing us forward, onto the shore.
Until all is done and we're ready for another,
Freshly clean, energised by the thrill,
Waiting for another baptism, another wave
Perfecting us, but still ready for more.
May 2024
In search of the perfect wave on the Carmel coast, California
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